I was recently at a work conference in Laguna Beach, California and noticed a lot of poorly dressed men. I realize by nature guys are not supposed to care, a concept I frankly just don't get. But that's okay. I know I'm a rare bird when it comes to these kinds of things, but let me say this. Fellow dudes, you should care. You don't have to care on Saturday morning. You don't even have to care on casual Fridays. But for a meeting, a conference, and frankly in my opinion at least Monday through Thursday you should care. If your employer isn't Google or some oddball tech firm like that, the leaders of your company are watching. Consider the way you dress as a career move.
The good thing for guys is, it's really easy because men's fashion changes very little. The difference between today and 20 years ago is not that great; perhaps fabrics are more finely tuned and clothes actually fit now, but not much more than that. Guys still wear slacks & dress shirts and polos & chinos just like the 90's and the early 2000's. So invest in yourself a little bit. Your wife will thank you too. She can actually take you somewhere and it will appear you've been somewhere before. How do you look the part? Here are my simple rules on looking polished, looking like your on track to be CEO or Managing Director even if you're really not.
Here are my 15 rules on dressing to look the part.
Rule # 1 - Always Overdress
This is the first and most important tip. Wearing a suit and tie, or blazer and tie, to an event, only to learn is more business casual is easy to fix. Simply remove your tie. Showing up with no tie only to learn you need one is hard to repair. Take that one step further. Wearing suit and tie or blazer and tie to an event, only to learn it’s less than business casual, lose the tie and the jacket and perhaps even roll up the sleeves. Showing up to a work event, conference, etc. and you’re the only person not wearing a blazer is irreparable and can sometimes be career damaging. You can always easily subtract, it’s impossible to add once you’ve been spotted as the JV guy who didn't pay attention to the memo or know your company's culture. Always overdress to cover your ass - subtract as needed.
Rule # 2 - Undershirts
This is a textbook no. Crew-neck undershirts are reserved only for when wearing a necktie or bowtie. Not ever when the shirt is unbuttoned (above). That is why the V-neck was created (below). It still serves the purpose of the undershirt, which is to absorb sweat and extend the life of your dress shirt. You should look like this, not like the goofball above.
Rule # 3 - Upgrade Your Fit
Three or more buttons, plus long and baggy don’t make you look the part. It makes you look like you felt obligated to dress up but don’t actually care what you look like. Two button suits are classic and timeless. You can never go wrong, because they’ve never been unstylish.
Slimmer cuts actually make you look slimmer despite your body type. Be comfortable in your suit, so don’t wear it tight, but it’s not sweatpants and a hoodie either.
Rule # 4 - Tie Length & Wearing a Belt
Your tie should reach no further, nor notably shorter, than the belt buckle or the waistband of the trousers. And believe it or not it’s actually okay to not wear a belt if you’re:
1. Wearing suspenders (braces).
2. When your pants have a tabbed closure at the waistband.
Rule # 5 - Fabrics Speak; Suit Fabrics
Shiny suit fabrics (below) make even high end suits look low end. Stay away from it. You don't want to look like your suit is from Target or Wal-Mart. Stay away from shiny.
High end suits have fabrics with texture and weight (below) and it's especially easy with wool suits to spot the real deal from the poser. But you don’t have to pay high end prices to get a high end looking suit or blazer, shop around for the look not the label or the price tag.
Rule # 6 - Fabrics Speak; Chinos
Chinos or cotton khakis (navy, brown, etc.) are very casual pants. If you’re wearing canvas shoes or a casual loafer, chinos are perfect. Don’t confuse chinos as being dressy if you put on a dress shirt and a blazer with them. That's still a casual look.
Rule # 7 - Take It Up a Notch
Functional buttons on your suit cuff (below left) and pick stitching on your lapels (below right) are marks of a well made, well thought out garment. People know you mean business if you’re donning these details.
Rule # 8 - Pay Attention to Detail; Pocket Squares
The pocket square is the single most indispensable tool for defining a man of style these days. There's no steadfast rule for choosing a pocket square. It should simply complement your shirt and tie, not match them.
Most importantly. It’s a pocket square, not a pocket volcano. Cool (above left). Clownish (above right).
Rule # 9 - Pay Attention to Detail; Fix That Fly Away Collar
That goofy little collar situation where they fly open like a cab door on windy in Chicago is so annoying. And it doesn't look good. But that's just how the shirt is made, you tell me. It doesn't have to be this way.
I’m a big fan of a product called Power Stays by Wurkin Stiffs. It uses a metal collar stay, plus a magnet on the back side to achieve this look.
Take a look at the before and after photo. Much better right???
Rule # 10 - Pay Attention to Detail; Belts
Dressy belts are skinnier in nature, have a more refined belt buckle, and just generally look dressy.
Casual belts tend to be wider, have a large belt buckle and look like boots should be worn with them.
Rule # 11 - Pay Attention to Detail; Pants
No one wants to see you wearing high waters. That a’int cool. But your pants should NEVER puddle on top of your shoes either. Ask your tailor or alterations person for a military hem or give them this picture. You may like them a little longer than pictured below, that’s fine, just avoid the puddle.
There's more to consider than just length though. Don't be caught wearing your dad's zoot suit pleated pants (below right). And please, your business isn't too big to wear flat fronts, stop kidding yourself. You need to be wearing flat front pants (below left).
Rule # 13 - Pay Attention to Detail; Shirts
Avoid looking like Dwight Schrute with all the colorful yellow, brown, and other bright colored shirts; including really bright blue.
Instead think more classic solids and prints, more like a shirt a banker might wear. The way you wear will it distinguish you from the old crusty banker dude. Avoid the big clown collars too, 2" collars should be about right. For more flair choose a spread collar or a collar smaller than 2."
Rule # 14 - Pay Attention to Detail; Ties
I’m a proponent of skinny ties, but not too skinny. 2.5” is an appropriate skinny. Skinny is more of a fashion statement though, not a do or don’t. Your tie width should reflect roughly the width of your lapels on your blazer or suit.
While skinny may be a preference, too wide a no-no. Try to find a happy medium if you’re not into the skinny tie.
Ties are just like the shirt. Think more classic, colors & design more muted, but not necessarily earthy in tone though.
Rule # 14 - Dress Shoes, Not Boots
Dress shoes DON’T have big clunky soles or turned up toes, or driving heels. These are not dress shoes.
Dress shoes DO have nice refinements and thin soles.
Rule # 15 - Shoes Worn with Suits
This is a hard fast rule. Loafers are always, always, always casual (unless you’re Hugh Hefner and you’re wearing Prince Albert slippers with your tux) meaning loafers should never be worn with a suit. Period.
Oxfords or lace ups are the only shoes to wear with a suit. Loafers are totally appropriate with a blazer and slacks however, just not with a suit.
*Excerpts from various GQ publications
